Within the thick carpet of Parisian rooftops lies wonderfully rich cultures of food and drink, and none the poorer is the culture surrounding the baguette. Like so many other Americans that came before me, I am in love with French baguettes. The first time I was in Paris even the bread on the ham and butter sandwiches at the airport was delicious.
For me, it's all about texture. Rarely if ever do I come across such heavenly crisp, crackling crust and tasty, tender insides (aka crumb) here in the U.S. The thickness of the crust is also perfect. So just what is it that accounts for the difference in quality? It's generally agreed amongst artisan bakers that the difference is in the flour. Americans use high-protein flours while the French use lower protein flour, resulting in the different textures. And the reason why a decent baguette is so easy to find in Paris? The answer lies in the business models of French flour mills. A few major mills license the right to bakeries to use their flour and recipes to bake the baguettes.
"We will have many baguettes, we will have the best baguettes!", I said to Max before our recent trip to Paris. We will explore Paris via its baguettes! And so, armed with recommendations from Clotilde's Edible Adventures in Paris, It Must've Been Something I Ate, and a tub of creamy fresh butter, Max and I visited five bakeries in two days, sampling some of the most well known baguettes in town. Sadly, I have only souvenir photos to show because baguettes are transient beings with tragically short lives:
For me, it's all about texture. Rarely if ever do I come across such heavenly crisp, crackling crust and tasty, tender insides (aka crumb) here in the U.S. The thickness of the crust is also perfect. So just what is it that accounts for the difference in quality? It's generally agreed amongst artisan bakers that the difference is in the flour. Americans use high-protein flours while the French use lower protein flour, resulting in the different textures. And the reason why a decent baguette is so easy to find in Paris? The answer lies in the business models of French flour mills. A few major mills license the right to bakeries to use their flour and recipes to bake the baguettes.
"We will have many baguettes, we will have the best baguettes!", I said to Max before our recent trip to Paris. We will explore Paris via its baguettes! And so, armed with recommendations from Clotilde's Edible Adventures in Paris, It Must've Been Something I Ate, and a tub of creamy fresh butter, Max and I visited five bakeries in two days, sampling some of the most well known baguettes in town. Sadly, I have only souvenir photos to show because baguettes are transient beings with tragically short lives:
Look at it--just look at it! Our first one, against a romantic cobblestone backdrop no less. If you go ask specifically for the Piccola baguette. Coquelicot. 24 rue de Abbesses, 18th.
This one was a winner with me as well. Refined crumb, taught, crisp crust, still warm! Gosselin. 125 rue Saint-Honore, 1st.
Thumbs down, too hard and chewy. Julien. 75 rue Saint-Honore, 1st. 
Winner- refined and hearty at the same time, much nuttier than the previous ones. Try their sweet brioche (delightful). Known for croissants (good, not spectacular). Had chocolate chip cookies (OK). Kayser. 8 rue Monge, 5th. 
Modus operandi: park bench, tub of fresh butter. Luckily we got some warm days.
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1 comments:
I want to say something about bread and butter being my bread and butter, but really old people are, and it just doesn't work, so I'll go with the Homer Simpson route:
Mmmm.... Bread....
Mmmmm....Butter....
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